Mr. Chairman, it’s all about the poort.
A poort is an Afrikaans term for a narrow traverse through a mountain range, usually following a river course. One such is Seweweekspoort, the naming of which is somewhat shrouded in mystery.
In my working life, we tried to keep meetings short i.e. brief. But, to emphasize our intent, we coined the term “brevit”, Mr. Chairman. At least it’s one letter shorter than “brevity”!
So Poort it is from hereon in, just to be “brevit”.
The southern entrance to the poort is via the R62, that picturesque route to Zoar and Amalienstein, about 20km from Ladismith on the way toward Calitzdorp. These little dorpies in themselves are seldom-mined repositories of small-settlement beauty. Try them!!
The idea was to explore the beauty of the poort while also assessing the accommodation options along it’s route. It runs from the R62 northwards for about 27 km where the road eventually splits. A left turn takes you to Laingsburg while the right turn takes you to the Gamkapoort Dam.
The latter area also includes the SANPARKS site of Boschluiskloof which I had visited many years ago. The name Gamkapoort also indicates that this area is related to the well-known Die Hel, a common name for the Gamkaskloof in the Swartberg mountain range to the east.
The latter description, if you have previously enjoyed driving the Swartberg Pass, will intimate to you what you could expect on this meander.
Once you turn off the R62, the mountains framing the entrance to the poort is a grand sight. And, as you slowly drive toward it, you will see a few ruins on the right-hand side, these being the toll-keepers residence.
So, for all you younger folk complaining about toll roads, remember that this is an old institution in terms of fleecing you. Or, from a different viewpoint, raising funds to maintain the road. Note: SANRAL had nothing to do with this.
As the mountains start peering down at you, you will cross the Seweweekspoort River for the first of many times. The Afrikaans term kronkelpad so aptly describes the drive i.e. switching back on itself many times.
The grand Seweweekspoort Mountain is the highest in the Swartberg range at 2 236 metres above sea level. It stands out as you slowly traverse, because you should travel slowly, the nooks and crannies of the poort.
Of course, the vegetation takes on a new look when compared to the flatlands along the R62. Trees and bushes come to life, adjacent to the river as well as on the ever-steepening cliffs, overhangs and baby gullies and canyonlets branching off.
Each switchback brings new vistas while some blind curves calls for cautious driving. Huge rock overhangs abound, in some places affording brief shade. The whole drive has numerous picnic spots to stop and breathe in the spectacular scenery.
Instinctively I started looking for leopard, even while knowing that it is unlikely that this cat would show itself willingly. Fat, healthy-looking dassies (Hyrax capensis) dart about furtively on the passing cliff and warm rocks. I suppose they are also aware of the threat posed by leopards and bigger flying raptors.
Thirteen kilometres into the drive we arrived at our accommodation (Aristata), which is named after a rare species of protea, viz. Protea aristata. At this point, I must point I must point out that our initial plan was to sample different accommodation offerings in the poort. We were surprised to find out that Aristata was the only one. So much for forward planning, né.
Suffice to say that Pietie and Lena Van Rooy, caretakers of the lodgings, turned to to be originally from Prince Albert. Salt of the earth as they were, they further proved a font of knowledge about the poort and it’s history.
It resulted long conversations about their lifestyle. These included once a month shopping in Ladismith, grafting lemon and orange trees, planting cherries and figs as well as Lena tending and expanding a flowering garden of note.
A perennial spring originates about 200 meters up the immediate mountainside which supplies all the water, including some of which is used to drive a small hydroelectric pump to supplement the existing solar panels and batteries. And the big pool was kept refreshed with this natural source.
Pietie’s enthusiasm for his crusade again nst drugs and alcohol in his community, as far-flung as they are, was only matched by his love if his job. This included dragging a 5 000 litre Jojo tank, with his wife and two sons, about 200m up the mountainside, carrying materials up for the base and channelling the water the natural mountain spring to feed it.
While staying there, the only sounds you hear are birds, some traffic rumbling through and the sounds of other guests and their children. Sounds for the soul!
As you drive further northwards in the poort, with a slight incline, toward the fork indicating the end, the roaring walls climb high and higher above you. The sandstone walls are gnarled and ruffled like a blanket carelessly thrown on bed.
Some acknowledgement to a previous form of communication in this area are the lonely telephone poles, now sans the once ubiquitous cables. Like sentinels, similar to the half-mens tree (Pachpodium namaquanum), watching the unchanging landscape
More silent waterfalls were encountered, drifting down towards us. Silent because, for the season, the small stream of water was wind-blown and landed as a mist and a dribble on the wet rocks below.
It occurred to me that an entrepreneur could take advantage of all this. The unique selling point would be a tour on a flat-bed truck with mattresses on the back. You could then recline and look straight upwards to view the magnificent passing show. How wonderful that would be! I’ll take 10% of the proceeds if you start it.
Driving back toward Aristata gives you a second, yet different view, of the poort. It almost signifies the busy life to which you will return in a day or two. Since there is so much to see, at least two traverses of the poort is recommended.
Arriving at our cottage after a couple of hours in the heat and dust was such a pleasure. We stayed in a cabin named Kiepersol, the other two being Aloe and Keurboom.
Interestingly, kiepersol refers to the cabbage tree, which was named tree of the year of 1987. The name originated from a legend about a lone towering tree in the African savanna.
During the Boer War of 1900, some England soldiers who had seen a lion, ran toward this tree shouting Kiepersol. Years later, the Boers realized the soldiers were actually yelling, “we hope the tree will ‘keep us all’”.
And so we said our sad farewells to the Van Rooy family, Aristata and the beautiful poort. We had made new friends and seen nature at it’s beautiful, peaceful best.
I suspect the poort has its own force of gravity since it was difficult to keep driving back to reality. Yet, until today, there is an attraction that makes us know our next visit is not too far away.